ELEGANT REBEL
Combining clean lines and a rebellious spirit
It all started back in 2015 when I decided after much pondering to establish my very own label. Fashion has always been in my blood. It isn’t just a passion but something I was born to do. After working for years in the fashion industry, in the capacity as stylist, editor and designer, I decided to take the very bold move to make my dreams come true.
The birth of JO DISAYA, an eponymous pret-a-porter label that emphasises strongly on accessory detailing, and sophisticated yet unique craftsmanship on designs that reflect my very own personality – elegant, rebellious and androgynous.
Imagine this — a classy style with some bad girl vibes that doesn’t make the wearer look odd. Or consider the classy looks of Celine or Yves Saint Laurent, infused with the in-your-face attitude of Viktor & Rolf and Balmain.
It took a lot of guts and of course, money, to start the label. But I wasn’t about to let those hinder me. The brand was launched in Paris at the Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2015 to an audience of almost one thousand. It was an eye opener and a learning experience. It was unbelievable and incredibly mesmerising to be included in the prestigious calendar as a new kid on the block.
Fast forward, JO DISAYA has shown in multiple fashion weeks across the globe, including that of Paris Fashion Week, Australia Fashion Week, Hong Kong Fashion Week, London Fashion Week, Guangzhou Fashion Week, Beijing Fashion Week, Shanghai Fashion Week, and Malaysia Fashion Week.
My participation in these fashion events have not only given me a more in depth understanding into the ins and outs of runway trends, spending and buying trends, fashion forecasts and fashion marketing, it also opened up my contacts into the industry. Today, I have a thick phonebook sized list of buyers, critics and editors in my pocket. Something that I hold very preciously onto.
Raised in Australia, I started sketching designs and imagining my own runway shows at the age of 13. I first read law and graduated from Monash University, Melbourne, and subsequently, went on to pursue Commerce and Fashion Design respectively, to add onto my academic belt.
Law is something more concrete but I never liked it. It’s just not me. Fashion has always been me since I was very young.
Before I established the brand, I started my career in the fashion industry as a stylist, making bespoke pieces for a small number of clients. To start my own label took a lot of guts. But being in the industry has taught me a lot about its know-how and has opened up a lot of opportunities for me to meet established and upcoming designers around the world.
“And that was how the journey began.”
JO DISAYA is a label that specialises in androgynous wear. What it means is, we carry mainly womenswear but there is always a good portion of the collection that is unisex and gender fluid.
The brand uses radicalism and rebellion in both a strong and subtle way. With androgyny as its foundation, the label focuses on defined silhouettes with attention to accessory detailing and fabrication.
When the brand first came about, it was leaning more towards womenswear, but have since adapted more of my own personality and has become very gender versatile – genderless if you must. One can still find a feminine piece in each collection but the brand is now more known for being androgynous and that’s what makes it different and unique compared to other brands out there.
As much as I try to comply with the two main fashion seasons of the year – fall/winter and spring/summer, I have always designed and made my clothes to suit all weather. And to be honest, to suit all genders and style too!
For instance, a jacket and the fabrication that it uses can be worn in spring, fall and winter. A dress can be worn with runners, a bomber jacket can be worn in spring paired with a pencil skirt.
It is really, everything in one throughout the year. I wanted to make it as versatile and sustainable as possible for the wearer.
UNORTHODOX
My designs and clothing range are very personal to me. It’s about character. I’m also a hands-on person and very particular about everything I do. Everything about the label — from the look to the materials or fabrics used — glorifies individuality and reflects the strong, non-comformist styles and expression of myself.
For example, when white was the least likely colour option for outerwear, I showed white jackets in in my Autumn/Winter 2016 collection. And if bright colours or floral motifs were common or expected in a Spring/Summer collection, I used those elements in the Fall/Winter 2017 range.
I always do things the opposite way. I don’t conform to the norm or follow trends. When I design, I do what I like or what inspires me. And when it comes to runway shows, I ask my models to feel what they wear and go freestyle. I minimise on styling and choreographing because I know my designs are loud enough.
People often ask about my inspiration. Well, I like the classy, elegance and sophistication of Celine, Yves Saint Laurent and Raf Simons. I also like the vulgar sides of Viktor & Rolf, Maison Martin Margiela and Comme des Garcons. I am a mix of both sides. In other words, you can look elegant yet rebellious at the same time when you don a JO DISAYA.
But generally, I can be inspired by just about anything, from provocative structures and unorthodox art pieces to someone who is passing by. Or while I’m waiting at the airport. For example, for the Spring/Summer 2017 collection, the looks are a mix between sportswear and corporate suits.
I like power suits and I like to create clothes that are suitable for day and night and also the weekend, for men and women. The collection was born when I was in a phase where I loved wearing sneakers and sports outfits. I was trying to infuse sports in corporate wear. Thus, the pencil skirt and bomber jacket look.
I live by the principle of me as my very own first customer. So every design is one that I would personally wear. It’s always been a dream to try and spread my personality to the world through my clothes – for people to embody the essence and characteristic of JO DISAYA and the values that it supports which are equality and individuality.
I love experimenting and playing with fabrics and accessory detailing, with high collar and plunging necklines, as the design’s signature elements. The cut is very structured and I love to experiment with fabrics. For instance, I use tetra rayon that is normally used for suits, for a daily top or a dress.
I have experimented with neoprene, often used in scuba diving suits, for outerwear with 100 per cent English wool as the lining and corduroy for jackets with expensive down as the lining. It all takes a vision, creativity, courage, faith and drive to perfect every individual outfit and making it as original as possible.
LIVING THE DREAM
In 2016, I won the Professor Jimmy Choo Award for Next Designer Of The Year at Malaysia Fashion Week. And the Mercedes Benz Most Promising Designer Of The Year Award in 2017 at the Mercedes Benz Stylo Asia Fashion Week.
It happened quite fast but it’s just part of the journey. The recognition gives the brand more weight undoubtedly. After my first show in 2015, there were buyers who were sceptical about my brand being a one-hit-wonder. But I believe the awards have proven otherwise.
Being able to turn my passion and dream into a career is astounding. It is something every person desire of. I reckon I have achieved about 50% of my dream because I am working and doing what I am passionate about. But my ultimate dream is to make JO DISAYA a household brand. Perhaps like that of Louis Vuitton, some day. I want to make my brand known for affordable yet recognisable high street, ready-to-wear designer pieces that feature nothing but uniqueness, elegance and sophistication. I want to give people that different look and feel about what they wear or can wear and look good in.
I always believe, however good or bad you are, or how conservative or modern you are, there is always that little rebel in you. And JO DISAYA is tailored to bring out that inner rebel.
It is in the pipeline for the brand to expand into accessories, shoes and bags in the near future.
But for now, one step at a time.
